The Splendor of Boracay: Year 2004

It was the last days of summer. Driven by a vacation package from RCI for Tong Len Resort in Boracay, Jigs, my family and I embarked on a Ro-ro (roll-on, roll-off) trip a little past noon, to tread our way to the renowned holiday mecca in Aklan, which basically involved about 14 hours of these dizzying steps: A bus commute from Cubao; a ferry trip from the Batangas Pier to Calapan, Mindoro; another bus ride to Roxas City; one more transfer via an old ferry to the Kalibo port, and finally, a ten-minute outrigger boat trip to the Caticlan port itself.

Batangas Pier

Ro-ro ferry to Calapan, Mindoro

Alas, at exactly 6:30 in the morning, we stepped foot on what many call the “Best Beach in the Philippines.”


Still drunken from the mind-whirring Ro-ro, Jigs and I decided to take a brief walk at the beach before taking a nap, and man, was that an exquisite beach combing experience. The serenity of the island was beyond compare. Our feet sank in the warm white sands, filled with towering coconut trees; the calm, azure waters glistened against the early morning sun. Even though the beach still had a bit of an overspill of tourists from the March-April vacation mania, the island itself sat calmly. There’s something about Boracay that mesmerizes like a drug for the first timer.

Most of our time were spent simply strolling and swimming from Stations 1-3. Station 1 is the eastern part of the entire seven-kilometer White Beach strip (the main, touristy island in Boracay), and is probably the best area to swim in because it has the clearest water and is the most private, relaxed area of the three. This part also houses some of the more mid to upscale beachfront hotels like Pearl of the Pacific, Willy’s Beach Club Hotel, Friday’s and Waling-Waling.

Station 1 is also where the famous Virgin Mary grotto (perched on Willy’s Rock) once stood before it was (sadly) taken down by the owners of Willy’s Beach itself (who were actually the ones who had it built before they were converted from Catholics to Born Agains. But anyway.)

Station 2 is the middle part of the stretch, and is considered the most upbeat part of the island. It is home to a universe of restaurants, bars, lodges and hotels, masseurs, vendors and hippies offering braiding and dreadlock services. As this is the busiest part of the White Beach island, one can expect it to be flocked by visitors, foreigners, and yes, a few peddlers,  from sunrise till sundown.

What I like about Station 2, though, is it exudes that hip Miami Beach vibe and is perfect when you feel all sunny and gay, and you’re in the mood to explore the youthful air of Boracay. Astonishing sandcastles built by the locals themselves are mostly found along Station 2, and tourists are encouraged to drop a coin or two as aid to their builders. Station2  also has an interesting array of restaurants to choose from – from Italian to budget Pinoy restos – and lots of those Jamaican -inspired trinkets and goodies on the sidelines.

Station 3 is…well, I’d consider it the budget-friendly part of the island. This is where I like to go for souvenirs, as this is where the talipapa is located. Practically all the merchandise you see hanging in Station 2 can be found at the talipapa, for only half the price (sometimes even less). I was able to buy an authentic shell jewelry case here for P30, and Capiz chandelier earrings for P35. If you’re on a shoestring budget, I’d recommend eating lutong-bahay in one of the turo-turos in the talipapa; A full meal only costs P35. If you don’t want to take the long walk from Station 1 or 2 to 3, you could always take a motor tricycle for P8/head.

You may be wondering “what about the booze?” Ah, yes. Boracay is never Boracay without booze and clubbing, ain’t it? During the first night we picked Club Paraw in Station 1 because of its ultra laid back ambience (huge pillows on the sand, slick reggae sounds) and its affordable food. Club Paraw’s weng weng speaks clearly for itself. By far, the most delicious weng weng we’ve tasted, but also the deadliest. A pitcher + 2 bottles of San Mig Lights later, Jigs and I were dead drunk. It almost felt like like we were on ‘shrooms.

We also tried Pier One, but it really didn’t hit the vibe right there. Maybe it was the unfinished, raw cement look it wore in contrast to the beach where it sat, or maybe it was that poser who was calling her friends in shouting “HEY! I’M IN BORACAY, BITCH!” while swigging her bottle of beer in mid-air, or maybe the music was just too damn loud (or I am too old). There just wasn’t any chemistry between us.

We met a bangkero, Mang Boy, during one of our strolls and we immediately arranged an island hopping trip with him for the following day. After some quick haggling, he agreed to take us to Crocodile Island, Crystal Cave and Puka Beach for P1,000, excluding the snorkel set (P150 per set) and entrance fee to the islands. We head on to the three islands the day after we arrived, post-breakfast at Nigi Nigi Noos Noos. A li’l bit of segue: the omelette at Nigi was a bit bland for me, although the texture was really nice (Sorry I don’t have pictures of it, but I recall it was around P180-200 during that time).

Puka Beach (free entrance) is usually the first leg of Boracay Island hopping tours, since it is located just north of White Beach and is the easiest island to go to. If you hire a tricycle, you should be able to reach Puka Beach in fifteen minutes.


While the sand here is coarser, it is relatively quieter, more serene, and the water, noticeably cleaner. The bottom is visible still even a few meters off shore. Locals flock to this island to collect shells they use for selling necklaces, bracelets, home decors and more.


It is a good picnic spot as it’s relatively empty – no accomodations, bars or stores. Just a few vendors selling their products and soda.

Our second stop was Crocodile Island, so called because of its crocodile-like shape. A  fifteen to twenty-minute boat ride from the main island, it is home to a variety of big fishes and live corals. The marine life  underwater was refreshing, although if you’ve already been to a diving hotspot like Coron or Anilao, Crocodile Island could be a bit short of being wildly spectacular.

The island hopping tour was actually short, and we were back to the main island before lunchtime.


Boracay definitely upped the ante for all our vacations. Despite the misadventures of that Ro-ro trip, the grand hangover, the incredibly petty squabbles Jigs and I had in the island, it was, hands down, one of the best vacations we’ve had.


What makes Boracay click? I couldn’t say for sure. Could be the media and tourist hype.Or the unparalleled soft texture of the talcum-like sands, the coconut tree-fringed shores. How the water is always calm, how it always has that glitz amidst a static serenity. All I know is, it’s definitely one of those places you go to a first time and never forget.